Gems of Setubal

In my last post, I showed you the utilitarian side of the city- long streets lined with bland, but practical, high-rise housing. But there are many faces of our new hometown. I offer you this pictorial tour of some of my favorite little treasures.

A Little Help From Our Friends

We spent the better part of Wednesday on laundry and reviewing our Portuguese textbook for our lesson later that afternoon. We knew we wanted to make plans for dinner because there was nothing to eat at home and eating out with friends is SO much nicer than grocery shopping! We were able to secure a spot on Helena and Mike’s busy calendar and they agreed to meet us right after our tutoring session ended at 5:30.

To our surprise, they brought their car. They wanted to show us one of their favorite sites around town that wasn’t easily reached on foot. Always up for something new, we eagerly hopped on board. Mike drove past the familiar sections of town we’d explored in our walks. He continued past the beach that Tim had photographed earlier in the week, and continued on, climbing up a steep, curvy road that led to the top of the mountain. We ended up at Sao Filipe, a fort that has stood sentry over the city since the 18th century. We arrived at dusk and were able to get some great views of Setubal and the bay as the sun sank behind us. We strolled through some beautifully restored areas of the fort, including a stunning chapel, wrapped in traditional blue and white ceramic tiles. What a perfect little gem! Helena and Mike led us through some more restored areas of cozy lounges and opulent spaces where folks can read, reflect, or converse at leisure. This charming spot is maintained by the city of Setubal for the benefit of the public. After a brief return to the scenic overlook, a staff person explained that the guard was holding the fort gate open for us because they were closing for the night. Reluctantly, we left, vowing to return when we could spend more time. We’re so glad our friends offered us a ride to this lovely spot.

Tim and I are still learning some of the local customs, one of which is the hours of operation for stores and restaurants. Helena reminded us that the restaurant where we were planning to eat did not open for dinner until 7:00, so after driving around a little longer and seeing more of the shoreline after dark, it was time to eat. We returned to the nice pizza place in the old town where we’d first met Mike and Helena a few days ago. Over fantastic salads and calzones, we enjoyed lively conversation and picked up a few tips on the Portuguese language from Helene. She told us the name of this favorite restaurant translated to Chew! After dinner, we walked the short distance to our friends’ house/Air B&B, and enjoyed another hour or two of wine and conversation. I must admit we were grateful for their offer of a ride home when we felt the biting wind racing through the narrow streets of the old town. We were sorry to have this congenial evening come to and end.

While we were out, our friend Barbara texted us to see if we’d join her and Wayne the following afternoon for cocktails at their place. She suggested it would give us another look at our future apartment and the furnishings we will be acquiring from them in April. Never ones to turn down an opportunity to hang out with friends, we gladly accepted. What a great time we had! We are even more excited about the apartment than we were before, but more importantly, we thoroughly enjoyed our conversation with Barbara and Wayne. Conversation flowed easily and they shared lots of important information on topics that ranged from haircuts to healthcare, and the free community centers in town. We count ourselves lucky to have stumbled across this friendly, accommodating city where we’ll make our home for the foreseeable future. Even more, we’re so grateful for these smart, charming, and very helpful people who have become good friends so quickly.

Now, armed with deeper knowledge of our town and her amenities, we look forward to a busy weekend completing some delayed errands and meeting Barbara and Wayne at the local art cinema for a showing of “The Green Book.” Life is good.


Ruts and Grooves

By definition, there isn’t much of a distinction between a rut and a groove. Both are long, narrow cuts in a surface of something; synonymous with furrow. In American colloquialism, there is a big difference between the words. To be “in the groove,” is a desired state; going with the flow, moving effortlessly through a task or a period of time. Being “in a rut” means you’re stuck in a dull routine with no variation or surprises; slogging. Like many states of mind, it is all a matter of perspective.

I have always feared falling into ruts. Most of my many jobs have felt like ruts in pretty short order. I’ve rarely lived at the same address more than five years. My decorating style was in a constant state of flux. About the only long-term commitments I’ve had throughout life have been in my relationships; lifelong friendships, close family ties, a strong marriage. For the most part, relationships have been the grooves that have kept me centered and moving forward.

The avoidance of ruts was a driving factor in our move overseas. Tim and I both felt that exposure to extreme change on a daily basis would keep us on our toes. Learning a new language, immersing ourselves in new cultural norms, navigating new systems, and seeing new things would certainly keep our brains and spirits agile. Our brief experience as immigrants in Portugal has certainly lived up to our expectations!

To an observer, our daily routine might look like it’s skewing perilously close to a rut. We have a very predictable routine of puttering around the house in the morning doing household chores, showering, checking up on yesterday’s news from the United States. We review our Portuguese homework, maybe read a little, possibly tend to some financial or visa-related tasks. Most days, we walk a little or a lot, and we usually end up at a grocery store to fill a backpack or two with necessities. All the makings of a rut.

But, as always, it’s our budding relationships with folks we’ve met here that transform that would-be rut into a groove. It’s a dinner date with friends that blossoms into a guided tour of an ancient fort, followed by a delightful evening of chat and laughter with new friends. It’s an impromptu drop-by for cocktails that morphs into a long afternoon of discovering how much we have in common with the folks who were strangers a month ago. It’s an afternoon meet-up at the neighborhood cafe that migrates to a near-by restaurant for a leisurely dinner and great, meandering conversation. Ah! That’s LIFE!

Yesterday morning, Tim and I set off on a quest to find a specific hair salon that had been recommended to me by Barbara. We hiked to the furthest reaches of the town, down main thoroughfares and up tiny alleys. I’d just about worn my knees to nubs and was unhappily facing a long walk home, so we stopped to rest my bones and check our phones for near-by salons. We’d not been perched on that wall more than a couple of minutes when a tall older lady approached us. I’m not sure what tipped me off to the fact that she was not Portuguese, but somehow I knew. She began speaking with us in a language that wasn’t local, but also not English. I shook my head sadly to let her know I could not understand. She said something in Portuguese then, but since the phrase she used was not one from the first chapter of our textbook, I was stymied. I said, simply, “English?” In beautiful English, she responded, “Oh, are you English?” When we said we were Americanos, she smiled and nodded. “Well, I could tell you weren’t Portuguese, and I was so hoping you might be Dutch.” We had a lovely little exchange with her and learned she was 75 years old, born in Holland. She’d married a Portuguese man, raised her children here, lived here for many decades. She said the older she got, the more homesick she was to hear her mother tongue. How I wished I could have exchanged a few pleasantries with her in Dutch! She was clearly disappointed, but was kind enough to spend a few minutes chatting with us in English. (Have you noted the fact that in a span of three sentences, she conversed in three languages?) I hope she finds a Dutch tourist or expat soon.

Having given up our search for the salon, we kept walking in the general direction of home. As we passed our favorite park, a lovely bench beckoned to me to rest my joints again before completing the final quarter mile. Almost as soon as we sat down, a dapper gentleman passed near us, stopped, and looked at us closely. He cocked his head slightly like a robin listening for a worm, and then began to speak to us. Again, we were forced to admit we didn’t speak Portuguese, and he said, “Well, I speak English.” He asked us how long we we’d been in town, where we’d come from, how long we were going to stay. He seemed happy that we were planning to make Setubal our home, and told us what a nice city it was. He said he was 72 and asked Tim how old he was. This gentleman who had thick snowy-white hair, joked that he’d thought Tim would be older, looking at his balding pate. We all laughed, and then he said, pointing to his head, “It is better to have good thinking and bad hair than good hair and bad thinking.” We talked about how friendly we had found the local citizens to be, and he agreed. He said if he weren’t the kind of man who liked talking to strangers, he would never have met two Americans in the park. While we chatted, I noticed he kept glancing up to an apartment building across the street. He finally said, “I would like to invite you to lunch, but my wife would be embarrassed if we only had enough food for two people. I wish I was sure we had enough leftovers for four.” We exchanged names and a few more pleasant comments before moving on. His name was Joao – the Portuguese equivalent of John – and I truly hope we’ll run into him again someday.

When we were a couple hundred feet from home, I ducked into Ana & Diego’s Unisex Salon to see if 1) anyone there spoke English, and 2) I could make an appointment. It turns out Diego spoke perfect English, and I didn’t need an appointment. Ana gave me the best haircut I’ve ever had – not a single word of English required!

When we got home, we found a text from Barbara, inviting us to lunch on Saturday. Wayne wants to introduce us to a local dish called Bacalhau Espiritual (Spiritual Cod) before we all go to a matinee at 4:00. What other culinary marvels might we discover in a country that has a traditional dessert called Camel Drool?

No ruts here!

The Matinee

We awoke on Saturday, eager to start the day. In addition to having a sassy new haircut, we had social plans! We had a quick trip to the grocery store (Pingo Doce, which means “sweet drop”), and then we were invited to Barbara and Wayne’s place for lunch, followed by a matinee at the local art cinema.

Of course, we’ve come to really enjoy time spent with B and W because they’re fun, interesting people with a spirit of adventure and an appreciation of words. An added bonus is that a visit to them is also a visit to our future home. The more we’re there, the more we like the feel of the place.

Lunch consisted of a good local red wine (vinho tinto), water with ice cubes (!), a delicious salad made by Wayne, crusty Portuguese bread, french fries, and the promised Bacalhau Espiritual (Spiritual Cod). It was all yummy, especially the “heavenly” entree. There are many well known cod dishes in this country, all with different names, each one prepared differently from place to place – like meat loaf or lasagna in the US. Our Espiritual was a baked casserole with a creamy sauce and various types of seafood and sweet Portuguese carrots. I would definitely eat it again!

After lunch and lively conversation, the four of us walked a couple of blocks to the cinema where we were joined by Ken and Jo to see Green Book. I was the only one in the group who’d seen it before, but I knew it was well worth seeing again. The cinema experience was a little different from what we have at our beloved Neon in Dayton. First, they don’t have popcorn, so I was able to establish for the first time that it is, indeed, possible to get through an entire movie without munching on a greasy, salty snack. The concession was quite modest – mostly coffee and candy bars, but no one bought anything before going into the theater. It was a medium-sized auditorium which was filled to about 25% capacity. Barbara said that was about the biggest crowd she’d ever seen there, except for a Disney animated feature that brought in lots of kids. The space was filled with the sound of old American country tunes like Achy-Breaky Heart, which Barbara says is the same music they always play prior to a film starting. Eschewing all coming attractions, the feature film began at the stroke of 4:00. It was shown in its original English, with Portuguese subtitles. The audience seemed to be enjoying it as much as I was when suddenly, the movie stopped and the house lights came on. Everyone just started to quietly exit the theater! Barbara explained the the practice here is to halt the film at the half-way point for an intermission! The audience hung out by the concession area sipping coffee, or sauntered down the corridor to the restrooms. After about 15 minutes, folks strolled back to their seats, the lights dimmed, and the movie picked up exactly where it had left off. By the way, no concessions are ever consumed inside the auditorium.

This little cinema screens one movie each week. On weekends, it is shown at 4:00 in the afternoon and at 9:30 at night. The whole experience struck me as quaintly quirky, but you can bet your last euro we’ll be going again – soon and often!

Portuguese Time

One of the many things that drew Tim and me to a life abroad was the leisurely pace of life enjoyed by folks all around the world. We envisioned afternoons lingering at a sidewalk cafe, long, slow walks through historic cities, meandering conversations with new friends, ample time to read all those great books we’d never managed to get to in our American lives. In our short time here, we’ve been fortunate to experience all of these.

But suddenly this week, we have noticed a change in the pace of our days. We’ve come to realize that a one-hour language lesson per week is not nearly enough to allow our brains to absorb much. As a result, we’ve committed to spending more time on homework and to adding at least 15 minutes a day with an online Portuguese course. We’ve even decided to expand the tutoring lessons to two per week.

Along with the drive to learn Portuguese, I was inspired to joined a study group that my mother attends every Tuesday. A small group meets in Mom’s living room to discuss “On the Brink of Everything” by Parker Palmer, and they allow me to join via video chat. It’s a nice way to get a little Mom time while challenging my brain with new ideas. Still, keeping up with the reading eats into my day just a bit.

Maintaining this blog takes a little time, too. Even on the days when I don’t post anything, I’m always thinking about what I’ll write the next time. Although this started primarily as a way to document our journey just for our own memories, I’m gratified to learn that several of our friends and family are keeping up with it. It has become a labor of love and an enjoyable way to stay in touch with multiple people we care about.

In fact, I enjoy doing this so much that it has inspired me to revisit a blog I did several years ago. That one was based on the wartime love letters between my parents. Because they were both such prolific writers, and because that war lasted so long, it took 1,101 posts to cover all of the 6,000 pages of letters that passed between them. I have always been aware that many of those posts, written in haste, or in the wee hours of the morning, were in need of better proofreading and serious editing. I’ve begun the long, but necessary task of doing just that. Starting with the letters from October 1943, I’m editing about 20 posts every day. That rate may have to slow a little, but I’ve already neglected it for so long, that I feel compelled to finish it as soon as possible. Besides, I never tire of “revisiting” these charming, love-sick kids through their thoughtful, articulate and funny letters.

With three evenings every week filled with lessons or study group, and my days packed with blogs, reading, and homework, there’s little time left for the other “fun” stuff like laundry and grocery shopping. Of course, Tim steps in to cover some of that, but he has a lot on his plate, too.

The one thing we never want to skimp on is social time. After all, it’s far too soon to abandon our dreams of…afternoons lingering at a sidewalk cafe, long, slow walks through historic cities, and meandering conversations with new friends.

Learning to Speak

One of the first things Tim commented on after he officially retired was that weekends took on a different status. We could either look at our unencumbered week as a seven-day weekend, or we could say that since one day was pretty much like any other, there really were no weekends. As much as I’ve liked having a rather unscheduled life, I did find myself missing the anticipation of weekends. I remembered with a little envy the mini thrill that used to hit on Friday morning, remembering that the work week was waning and the weekend was almost here.

Well, we have arrived at a familiar place in Portugal. For us, the weekend now begins on Wednesday evening – when our Portuguese lesson is behind us for the week. Up until now, that has meant that our weekends were about six days long, with only one day bringing a sense of dread and a mild case of “idontwannas.” ( I don’t wanna study. I don’t wanna do homework. I don’t wanna feel stupid!) But we are now in our last six-day week for the foreseeable future because starting next week, we will be taking two Portuguese lessons a week, on Monday and Wednesday evenings. That means more studying, more homework and twice as much feeling stupid.

For most of my life, I’ve heard that Portuguese is a lot like Spanish. It turns out that’s not really true. Many of the words might look the same on paper, but they are pronounced very differently. They may also have different meanings. Besides, since I only know what I think of as “Sesame Street Spanish,” the alleged similarity between the two languages doesn’t really help me that much anyway. Plus, almost any native of Portugal will tell you, “If you can’t speak Portuguese, just use English. But DON’T speak to me in Spanish!” Portugal has a rather sensitive history with their neighbor and the natives may be a little testy about always being overshadowed by that much bigger country that halfway surrounds them.

Natives I’ve spoken with, however, do admit that theirs is a very difficult language to learn. The five vowels make 14 different sounds, and there are no hard fast rules that tell you when to use which. Also, there is often not much correlation between the written word and and what it sounds like when spoken, so that’s fun…

A friend who’s been here much longer than I was teaching me what I should say to a hair stylist if I should discover she speaks no English. The friend told me the Portuguese word for “cut” was “corte,” but she warned not to pronounce the “e” at the end. When the hairdresser never did really understand what I was going for until I began my pantomime, I gave up talking. Later, my tutor said I really should say the “e” at the end, but not fully say it. I’m supposed to suggest that the letter is there, but sort of swallow it before it’s completely out. Now, how the heck do I do that?

Many languages I’m aware of have genders assigned to their nouns. I’ve always been glad English wasn’t one of them. Portuguese is. Not only does this language assign gender to its nouns, but some adjectives also have masculine and feminine forms, depending on the gender of the noun they describe! In other words, you could talk about a black object being “preto,” if it describes a masculine object, but must remember to say “preta” if the objedct is feminine.

Anyway, the European version of Portuguese is harder for most people to understand than its Brazilian cousin. There is a lot of shushing and essssing in the European version. One writer I saw described the language as a windstorm blowing wildly from one consonant to another, overpowering the vowels. Another person I heard described listening to a crowd of people speaking Portuguese as standing in a swarm of happy bees.

All I can say for sure is that Tim and I will continue to work hard at acquiring some level of proficiency and will eagerly look forward to our Thursday through Sunday weekends between tutoring sessions.

An Introduction to the Art and Culture of Portugal

When Tim and I first began learning about Portugal, we heard of a kind of music that is part of the cultural core of this little country. The music is called “fado” (FAH-doo), and once you’ve heard it, you’ll always recognize it. I’ll tell you about our live introduction to this art form in a bit, but first I’ll try to describe the music to you.

Fado is a collection of songs that are performed as solos. The instrumental accompaniment is either a six-string classical guitar, or a Portuguese guitarra, a round-body, 12-string instrument with steel strings strung in six sets of two, or both. The songs are heart-wrenching in the deep sorrow they convey through music and lyrics. The overall tone is one of haunting beauty and deep melancholy. I believe if fado were played in a forest, the animals would stop in their tracks and weep. The stories told by these songs are stories of loss. They can reflect the death of a beloved parent, the parting of old friends, the relentless change that time brings, taking cultural traditions with it. Perhaps it is the profound sense of loss of a once rich and powerful country that has been diminished over centuries to a homeland that garners little of the world’s attention. It is a unique and disarming sound. Our friends Barbara and Wayne invited us to join them at a small art gallery on Sunday afternoon for a live performance of fado. This was a rare opportunity to also see flamenco dancing in the same venue. Historically, fado was only sung by women, and even today, the only people who sing it professionally are women. But a while back, male fado singers began performing in one section of the country – the city of Coimbra, which is home to one of the oldest universities in Europe. Gradually, the men took over the art form to the point that a majority of amateur singers today are male. We had the good fortune of hearing both a man and a woman perform on Sunday.

Barbara explained that performances nearly always occur in a bar or club, after dark. There may be a few opening numbers sung by the lead performer, but then members of the audience can sign up to sing. Each performer is usually limited to two songs. As the evening unfolds, the better singers come forward, with the best generally coming at the very end of the night. The various regions of the country have different styles, and a fado aficionado can learn to the identify the differences.

After singing several selections on Sunday afternoon, the female singer yielded the floor to the male. His songs were almost all about his beloved city of Lisbon. Naturally, I couldn’t understand the words he was singing, but I could imagine stories of a great city falling on hard times, losing the luster of its ancient past, or perhaps about the capital undergoing changes from an influx of immigrants who drove prices up for locals. I certainly noticed a difference in the music of these songs compared to those sung by the woman. The rhythm of the Lisbon tunes was a bit faster, livelier. Were it not for the minor key, it might have almost sounded playful. I’d say the tune and presumably the lyrics were mournful, but the beat interjected an element of hope.

Several years ago fado was honored by UNESCO as a World Heritage Art, leading to world-wide attention and a resurgence of its popularity among the younger Portuguese population. I’ve had the opportunity to witness a number of places and art forms holding UNESCO World Heritage designations. I’ve always walked away with deep appreciation and awe at the achievements of humankind around the globe. It breaks my heart that the United States withdrew its membership in this proud global effort to foster peace and understanding.

https://en.unesco.org/about-us/introducing-unesco

Two Months In

Tomorrow will mark the end of our second month in Setubal. It’s gratifying to look back and see what we’ve accomplished in that time. We know our way around this delightful city, able to find just about everything we set out to find. The nice thing is, that even with the comfort of no longer feeling like novices, we are still happily discovering little gems; small shops we’ll go back to after we move, perfect little cafes in the midst of the old town; more murals, sculptures, fountains, and artifacts that add grace, whimsy, and character to public spaces.

We’re progressing, slowly, in our language lessons. Although we recognize a growing number of words and phrases in our text book, we’re still shy about saying more than “bom dia” and “obrigada” to shop clerks. We’re getting pretty good about reading menus and knowing what to expect when we order. We are pathetic in our complete lack of comprehension when locals speak to us in their native tongue.

We’re learning about Portuguese history and culture. Reading good histories and tour books, we’ve gained an appreciation of this little country and her people. Come spring, we’ll be striking out on day trips to explore more of what our new land has to show us.

We stand in awe of the weather. Although we supposedly arrived in the worst season of the calendar, Portugal has been kind to us. The “rainy season” has yielded about two days with off and on showers, and another day with rain in the afternoon. One week, we had four or five days of overcast skies which was a true disappointment after weeks of brilliant blue, cloudless days. We muddled through. The forecast for this week is less rain and warmer temps. (Daily high temperatures to date have ranged from about 57 to 63 degrees Fahrenheit.) The downside of this nearly perfect winter is that the shortage of rain heralds a probable drought this summer.

We’ve made friends. Lots of warm, kind, interesting friends. I’m glad to report that our social circles are not composed exclusively of American expats. We’ve become friendly with a number of native Portuguese, and English-speaking immigrants from other countries, too. This week we met a great guy named Wim. He is Dutch by birth, spent 36 years in Australia, and has recently retired to Portugal. Just today, a group of expats – some of whom I don’t yet know – have been arranging a meet-up for an American couple who will be checking out Setubal in a couple of weeks. The US couple made a request on a Facebook page for Americans interested in Portugal for anyone in the Setubal area to meet with them and talk about our city as a potential place to open a B&B. A few local expats responded, including me. Pretty soon, one woman was inviting everyone to her house for a dinner party and a chance to welcome the potential new neighbors! No strangers here!

Tim stumbled into a part-time temp “job” this week when our friends Helene and Mike asked if he would oversee their new laundromat while they’re out of the country for two weeks. He’ll open the place up each morning via an iPad, saunter over after breakfast to clean the lint traps in the dryers, sweep the floor and make sure everything is running smoothly. At night, he’ll log on to check the video cameras, making sure the customers have all left and the machines are empty. Then he closes the door, turns out the lights, and activates the alarms with a couple of clicks on the iPad.

I helped my friend Barbara with an online store she’s opened recently. She has designed a variety of pop-up greeting cards and placed the templates and instructions online for people to buy. I downloaded a couple and she offered to help me assemble them. It gave me a chance to be guided by an expert, and her a chance to check whether a novice like me could follow her written instructions. A win-win for both of us, I think, plus a lot of fun.

On several occasions in recent days, Tim and I have found ourselves in the company of great folks in one cozy little restaurant or another. As conversation cascades its way through myriad topics, and laughter bubbles up enthusiastically, I’ve found myself sitting back to appreciate the moment. If I had any preconceived hopes of what our life overseas would be like, they would have been for occasions exactly like these!

We look eagerly toward the next two months, which will include a brief trip to Paris and our move into our own place. The real fun comes in discovering what unknown opportunities will present themselves.

Just Look Over Your Shoulder – a post by Tim Darcy

From simple graffiti sprayed onto walls, to beautiful murals and sculptures, Setúbal seems to have it all.  Just look over your shoulder – it’ll all be there.

Setùbal

The city of Setúbal is located on the northern bank of the Sado River estuary, approximately 48 kilometres (30 miles) south of Portugal’s capital, Lisbon. It is also the seat of the Setúbal District. In the beginning of the 20th century, Setúbal was the most important center of Portugal’s fishing industry, particularly specializing in processing and exporting sardines. None of the many factories then created are operating today. However, the existing maritime ports, either traditional, commercial or the new marinas, keep the city’s links to the ocean alive and vibrant. Tourism, based on the beautiful natural resources plus excellent hotels, resorts and infrastructure, is one of the city’s most appreciated attributes.

Luísa Todi

Luísa Todi was born Luísa Rosa de Aguiar on 9 January 1753 in Setúbal, Portugal. In 1765, her family moved to Lisbon, where her father was a musical writer in the Theatre of Bairro Alto.

Luísa began her career as an actress in 1767 or 1768 in Molière’s play Tartuffe. She met Francesco Saverio Todi, an Italian violinist, whom she married in 1769. After their marriage, on her husband’s advice, she began having singing lessons with David Perez, an Italian composer and Music Master of the Portuguese Royal Chapel.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lu%C3%ADsa_Todi

Mariana Torres

Setúbal - An evocative statue of Mariana Torres, a cane worker murdered in 1911 in an episode of the struggle for workers' rights. 

https://www.adn-agenciadenoticias.com/2016/03/estatua-de-mariana-torres-evoca-coragem.htm

Dolphins of Setubal

The Estuário do Sado is one of the few places in the world where a pod of dolphins actively lives within a freshwater estuary. The pod of approximately 28 bottlenose dolphins is routinely spotted swimming, hunting or playing in the waters south of Setubal. One of the more popular activities while in Setubal or Troia is to join a half day dolphin watching trip and tour of the Reserva Natural do Estuário do Sado.

Bonfim Park

Bonfim Park is located in the middle of the city. The park is a tranquil oasis and has a pond and fountain, walking paths, and whimsical art works from Maria Pó.

Maria Pó

José Afonso Auditorium

From the artist (ODEITH): “This piece was made in Setúbal on Avenida Luisa Todi and took nine days to complete . They asked me if the painting could have something to do with Setúbal .
I made a research and chose to do the boy who appears in a photograph taken by
A big photographer of Setúbal called Américo. While painting I wondered if the boy in the photo was still alive or had gone out of Setúbal.”

The rest of the story is fascinating: Here

Casa das Quatro Cabecas

This house has 4 sculpted heads on its exterior associated with an attack against D. João II (king of Portugal). Three of these heads represent the conspirators and the other represents the monarch.

No idea which this one is…

Trip Advisor doesn’t seem to know either: Here

San Francisco Xavier

Statue dedicated to San Francisco Xavier, Spanish Jesuit missionary in the East during the sixteenth century, who departed from Setúbal for his journey that would take him to the then newly discovered Indies.

 And the rest keeping a watchful eye:

This and That

During my three-week hiatus from this blog, I’ve been doing all the usual activities. I’ve met a few people, learned a few words, eaten a few meals. There really hasn’t been much new to write about. Today, I’ve decided to jot down a few unrelated bits of trivia that I’ve learned or observed in the intervening days. Tidbit #1: I’ve commented in the past about the complete lack of salt on food. No salt on french fries in the restaurants or popcorn at the movies. No salted-in-the-shell peanuts. Rarely is there a salt shaker on the table. I’ve since learned that commercial establishments are prohibited by law from adding salt to such things, to protect the Portuguese population from high blood pressure. I think passing legislation like that in the USA would be shot down as “Nanny State” tactics and gross governmental overreach. Here, it’s largely seen as a public health initiative.

Tidbit #2 Sausage here is nothing like most of the sausage in the States. It’s a little more like German sausage in that it’s always in a sturdy casing and often sold by links. It’s highly seasoned and very dense. I’ve not yet discovered a variety that I’d be excited about having with eggs or waffles. One type did capture my attention, though, because of its color. I see these large, thick black links at the meat counter in nearly every grocery store or butcher shop. It has the pragmatic and expected name of “black sausage.” I’ve been asking around about what it is and why it has such an unusual – and I daresay – unappetizing color. It turns out that it is one of many products in the black pork family. Black pork comes from pigs who have spent their happy free-range lives foraging in the ancient groves of cork oaks. These, as my observant readers may have guessed, are the variety of oak trees from which cork is harvested. The pigs while away their days in gluttonous gobbling of acorns from the cork trees, and the acorns actually turn their meat dark. Black pork is a delicacy in these parts, and costs more than its ordinary pink cousin. I’ve yet to sample any of it, but maybe someday. If I do, I’ll let you know.

Tidbit #3 Because our temporary health insurance is winding down soon, we’ve been researching replacement policies. It turns out that we can expect to pay less than $150 a month per person for full coverage that meets the European standards and will cover us anywhere in the world except the United States. In addition, for $85 we can join an organization for expats in Portugal that will give us discounts on medical procedures (and many other services). We’ve been talking to lots of people about healthcare recently and are hearing nothing but raves about the quality of care at jaw-dropping low costs. Yesterday we spoke with a woman whose US doctor had advised she have knee surgery before leaving the States. She said she’d been reading about all the innovative treatments available in Europe that have come out of stem cell research, making many kinds of knee surgery unnecessary. Her doctor said if she had that option, he’d urge her to take it. Americans are lucky to have some of the best trained medical professionals and healthcare facilities in the world, but they certainly don’t have a lock on quality healthcare. Other cultures have found methods for developing pharmaceuticals and medical treatments that are not possible or feasible in the US.

Tidbit #4 Tim and I were curious in recent days to see advertising circulars filled with pages of children’s costumes – just like those American kids wear for Halloween. The gaudy get-ups started filling up the racks and windows of discount stores around town. Yesterday, we saw a big throng of very young children joyfully parading down a Lisbon street dressed as bumble bees, pirates, princesses, and super heroes. Our Portuguese friend Helena told us this is a long tradition as we approach Carneval, leading up to lent. There are carneval activities planned in our great city park tomorrow, where we hope to immerse ourselves in Mardi Gras – Portugal style. Bonus tidbit: Did you know that the word carnival has the root word of carne, which for many languages means “meat”? The term carnival came from the early Christian practice of feasting prior to the meatless lenten period. It literally means “put the meat away.”

Well, that’s about it for now. Stay tuned for a future edition of “Cultural and Culinary Curiosities,” with your host, Susan Darcy.