It’s been a while since I’ve posted anything. Today is the day I’ve set aside to get caught up. It’s been a busy time, with a lot to report.
A couple of weeks ago, our friends Mike and Helena had a rare Saturday with no one checking in or out of their B&B. They were booked solid for several days and felt they could spend the day on much needed leisure activities. They invited us to ride with them on the ferry to the nearby peninsula of Troia. I may have mentioned Troia before. It’s a long sandy stretch of land that separates Setubal Bay on the Sado River from the Atlantic Ocean, and creates the longest beach in Europe at 43 kilometers.
We’d had close brushes with Troia before – once when we took the sightseeing boat out to see our local family of dolphins, and again every time we look to the left out our kitchen window.
The ferry offered a smooth, easy approach to the sandy shores of Troia, and in no time, we were driving off the boat and onto the peninsula. First, we parked at the developed end and saw up close the tall buildings we can see from our home. This area is the resort end, with pricey hotels, a casino, and nice shops and restaurants. It was a hot day, but the brisk breezes off the water kept us comfortable as we strolled around for a few minutes. We walked back to the car and drove a short distance up the peninsula, past a beautiful golf course and some gated communities of vacation rentals. Soon, we turned onto a sandy road that headed toward our ultimate destination of the ancient Roman ruins.
I’ve seen a few Roman ruins in my brief travels in Europe. They often consist of a few broken columns or the remnant of an arch. But these ruins were extensive. Our little group followed the long boardwalk that meandered through the remains of a significant community, built in the first century. We learned about this major fish processing community which had been the largest such outpost in the Roman world for five hundred years. Through signage and drawings mounted near the various structures, we learned about the importance of preserving fish which were then transported all over the Roman empire to feed the population. We saw what was left of the public baths used daily by the landowners, slaves, and visitors alike. We saw the crematorium and learned how this community had buried its dead. And we saw the remains of a large family home, situated with beautiful views of both the ocean and the massive estuary of the Sado River that attracts so many species of birds. We learned that a large expanse of additional ruins is being excavated and documented, with plans to open it to the public in the future.
I took a completely unearned sense of hometown pride in the important role Setubal has played throughout its history. This little area has been a hotbed of productivity and industry since the early days of civilization. I’m humbled to remember that I’d never heard of this place until just before arriving here less than nine months ago.
About a week later, Tim and I had our own little excursion. In an effort to become less dependent on the kindness and availability of our friends with cars, we decided to challenge ourselves with a trip to IKEA in Lisbon. We had a short list of small items we wanted for our apartment. We researched train/bus connections, and armed with a large tote to carry our booty home, we set off to prove we could still be self-sufficient adults. In less than an hour, we were walking into the mammoth marvel that is IKEA! It was a fun little outing, and I felt as pleased with myself as a kid whose training wheels had finally been removed.
We spent a good deal of time preparing for the visit of two sets of friends coming from the US. The first couple, Joan and Bart, decided to make us their first stop on a two-month tour of Europe. More on that visit later. I’ll just say we’ve had a good time shopping for a few little tidbits that make our apartment a little more inviting and entertaining a little easier.
Just before Joan and Bart arrived, we joined a crowd of our local friends for a cookout at the home of Milu and Dave. They recently moved to a lovely condo community about 15 minutes outside of Setubal. A group of 20 or more, including young children, gathered under a large pergola covered with lush grapevines that provided welcome shade over two long tables. The guys fired up the two big brick grills so everyone could cook their own meat or fish. The tables were practically sagging under the weight of salads, desserts, and beverages. (That’s saying a lot, because the tables were concrete!) We passed several delightful hours of camaraderie under the brilliant, Portuguese sky. Conversation was free-ranging from US politics to language lessons, book recommendations,and recent visits to local points of interest. Through it all ran the thread of our mutual love for this precious country. New friendships were forged and older ones were strengthened. What an amazing, perfectly enjoyable day!
Throughout the week that followed, we have had the pleasure of a nice visit with Joan and Bart. Sometimes we strolled with them through our favorite parts of the city. Other times, they explored on their own. We enjoyed fabulous meals in every cafe or restaurant we tried. We passed hours under the shade of an umbrella or tree, sipping cool drinks, and solving a majority of the world’s problems.
Tim and I decided that since we had spent so much time getting our home “company ready,” we should throw a party. With only a day’s notice, we invited several folks over for Happy Hour to meet Joan and Bart. With 15 people sitting, standing, eating, and talking, we learned that the capacity of our place is probably about 16 people. Although, if everyone were as compatible as this group, we may be able to squeeze in 20 or more. We had enough food and beverages to last about an hour, but the gang hung out for more than four hours! What an honor to have had such a charming group grace our little place for an evening. We’ll definitely do that again!
Bart and Joan left early today, headed for Brussels, Venice, and the coast of Croatia. I can’t wait to hear all about their travels. For now, Tim and I are feeling bereft. But, as always in this astounding life we lead, there are new delights just around the corner. Mario and TR arrive in eight days!