One Week In

When we first arrived in Portugal our landlady texted us from her winter home in Guinea Bissau that it usually takes two to three weeks for new arrivals to adjust to the new surroundings. At the time, I couldn’t imagine feeling adjusted anywhere near that soon. During this week, we’ve done a lot, learned a bit, and I’m still not feeling adjusted, but I can begin to imagine that someday I will be.

Today was gray and windy and I decided to stay in the apartment. I tidied things up a little, did some laundry, and had a long conversation with our eldest daughter, Lauren. She was feeling especially vulnerable because her medical insurer notified her of a huge rate hike when it was too late to make any changes for 2019. She’s in a financial crunch that she’ll need to find a solution for, and she’s worried. Although we couldn’t have made the situation any better had we still been living in the US, I think our absence magnified her distress. I’m grateful for instant access to our loved ones through free internet phone calls. Still, I blame the rain for making me feel more homesick today. I’m really missing friends and family.

Yesterday, Tim and I spent some time exploring the old town that Tim had passed through earlier this week.  The tangle of streets and pedestrian alleys is ripe with stately buildings in various states of repair, dating from medieval times. At the head of a large open plaza sits a handsome old stucco building painted a regal shade of purple. It is Setubal’s Town Hall. Who wouldn’t fall a little bit in love with a city that paints its ancient town hall purple? I’ve posted pics below of some of my favorite sites in this charming area.

The stately Setubal Town Hall in a regal shade of purple.

I was walking past this massive monument when I noticed the person honored here was a woman! So rarely do I see women memorialized for anything that I had to learn more. Luisa de Aguiar Todi was a Setubal-born soprano who lived from 1753 – 1833. More on Luisa later…
As I shared a few days ago, there is a park that joins our neighborhood with the old town. The park is filled with about a dozen of these egg-bodied cartoonish sculptures. (Tim is about 6’2″, so I don’t think I exaggerated when I said they were at least 12′ tall.) Anyway, each one represents a notable person or feature that Setubal is known for. This lovely lady depicts the famous market that has stood by the water front for centuries, and is one of the largest markets in Europe.
This haughty fellow proudly represents Setubal’s local wine – a world-renowned moscatel.
This modern-day depiction of soprano Luisa de Aguiar Todi conjures a very different image than the grand monument shown earlier. Is that a harp she carries?
Neither ancient nor artsy, these orange trees nevertheless gave me a little thrill. Need I say it is mid-December?
Another exotic example of winter in Setubal. I know, my Midwestern roots are showing.